Description

CyclePump® EXPEDITION Tire Inflator

Here at BestRest we’ve made a lifetime commitment toward getting you back on the trail as quickly as possible, after you get a flat tire.  That’s what makes a CyclePump a CyclePump.  US Patent D800,788

We’ve upgraded the CyclePump Adventure by giving it new rubber armor end caps, improved air filtering, and even better resistance to the hazards on the trail.  The new CyclePump EXPEDITION is the gold standard of tire motorcycle inflators.

July 18 2017:  Motorcycle Consumer News awarded the CyclePump their “Top Choice Award” in a shoot-out with 6 other tire inflators.
See their August issue.  Read The Article Here

Inflation Times For a BMW R1200GS based on our own tests:

Front Tire Minutes to inflate PSI Reading Rear Tire Minutes to inflate PSI Reading
110/80×19 2 min. zero to 28 150/70/17 2 min. zero to 17.5
3 min. zero to 37.5 3 min. zero to 25.5
4 min. zero to 46 4 min. zero to 31.5
5 min. zero to 36.5
6 min. zero to 46

Technical specs:

The aluminum case is less than 2″ high x 4″ wide x 6″ long
CyclePump in the storage pouch (with power wires)  dimensions are 2 x 6 x 8″
Weight is 34 ounces
Power draw is approximately 10 amps
Air hose is 18″ long
Power cord is 8-feet long
The power plugs fit BMW, cigarette, and 2-prong SAE connectors
Battery alligator clips attach to any 12 volt battery
You can order an optional 8-foot AutoCord for automotive applications

Why buy a CyclePump?  What about cheaper alternatives?

The question has been asked, “Is the CyclePump worth it? Why should I spend $100 when I can buy a cheaper pump somewhere else?”
If you really want the answers, read on…  if your mind is already set on buying something cheap, you’re wasting your time on this page.

The CyclePump has a LIFETIME Warranty !!!  cyclepump-lifetime-warranty

Our parents taught us “You get what you pay for.” “Buy cheap, buy twice (or even three times).” “Spend your money wisely (and buy the best the first time) and you’ll save money in the long run.” These basic truths haven’t changed and they certainly ring true when it comes to selecting a motorcycle tire inflator.

We make the CyclePump right here in the USA, at our shop 15 miles north of Seattle, WA. Every component we use is carefully selected for ease of use, quality of manufacture, and durability. We want them to last for years so we design them to work every time, and we don’t take any shortcuts when it comes to manufacturing. Every one of them is carefully fabricated by hand and tested before it leaves the bench. We take pride in these little inflators and we know that each unit has the potential privilege of being carried to the remote corners of the globe. We don’t take that responsibility lightly.

We provide 4 powering methods for the CyclePump:
1.  BMW plug that converts to a…
2.  Cigarette lighter plug
3.  2-prong SAE connector
4.  Small alligator clips that attach to any 12V battery.

We provide a top quality locking brass air chuck, not a cheap plastic flip lever air chuck.  You have the option of a straight air chuck, or a 90° air chuck.  That 90° chuck is great for bike that have limited clearance between the valve stem and the hub.

Our rugged aluminum case does three things – it protects the internals against damage, it protects your hands from the working parts and pieces, and it acts as a heat sink to dissipate heat. The case is strong enough to drop on rocks, stand on, drive over, or otherwise stand up to reasonable amounts of roadside abuse, and the CyclePump still keeps working. Not so with a cheap blue plastic inflator or a homemade Tupperware sandwich box model. Drop them on a hard surface and chances are you’ll be walking home.

We can rebuild, repair, and service the CyclePump. We seldom have any reports of failures, but when we do we can repair it or we can replace the defective part. Usually the problem is traced to the ingestion of dirt or sand. Read our instruction sheet – keep it out of the dirt and it’ll keep on pumping for many years.

We make thousands of CyclePumps every year and by now we’ve made over 30,000 units. As a result, we’ve gotten pretty good at it. We continue to improve the design, adding a feature here, strengthening a component there, and always aiming for improvements in durability, longevity, and reliability. We listen to customer input and we resolve issues whenever possible. We’re committed to quality and reliability; we’re not interested in using plastic components or cutting corners just so we can offer lower prices. Does the CyclePump cost more than other inflators? Yes, of course it does, and for a good reason. It’s made to a higher standard, and quality doesn’t come cheap.
 
A comment about the BMW CANbus system… BMW limits amperage on their accessory ports. The CyclePump needs 10 amps, BMW only gives you 5.  You’ll need to bypass their CANbus system and get power directly from the battery.  We tell you how in the CyclePump owner’s manual.

Don’t be misled by other tire inflators that boast how their low amperage level allows them to work with the BMW 5.5 amp CANbus limit.  Performance requires power.  A low-powered inflator will take 3 times longer to inflate your tire, and a low-powered inflator will quickly wear out.  Every year hundreds of riders come to after when their cheap inflators failed when needed most.  Invest in quality, invest once, reap the benefits for years to come.

Air Chuck Clearances:
The straight air chuck requires at least 4.5″ between the end of the tire valve stem and the wheel hub. This distance is needed because the air hose comes off the end of the chuck, so you have to bend it.

The right angle chuck requires only 1.8″ between the end of the tire valve stem and the hub, making this gauge ideal for bikes with limited valve stem clearance.

If you ride a late model BMW R12GS, you should order the right angle air chuck version.  It will fit between the valve stem and the wheel hub.  The straight chuck won’t.

If you ride a BMW K1600 there’s a problem with the location of the valve stem on the rim – there’s not enough clearance for either a straight chuck OR a right angle chuck.  Some models have the stem off-center in the cast wheel “spoke” opening.  No solution other than have that valve stem replaced with a 90-degree stem.